As when making rosti, I find that this makes the finished dish soggy because the potatoes steam rather than fry in the pan. I decide to concentrate on recipes which use cooked potatoes in order to steer well clear of rosti territory, but Nigella's hash browns and those in the Joy of Cooking both start from raw. Panicked, I wondered whether they were in fact different names for the same dish, but the Oxford Companion to Food reassured me that hash browns are "small rissole-like cakes of cooked and finely chopped potato" in the fine tradition of American hashes rather than the cakes cooked from raw or parboiled potato favoured in Switzerland. ![]() I lugged three large American cookbooks back in my suitcase, but only one had a recipe for hash browns, and that, in the 75th anniversary edition of the classic Joy of Cooking, sounded remarkably like a rosti. These, however, were certainly preferable to the greasy, floppy rosti-like creations I ate in Chicago a few years ago – and neither, I'd hope, are representative of the true glory of the hash brown. I'd hoped to return home an expert, but my principal experience of hash browns remains the crunchy orange triangles traditionally served with spaghetti hoops at school. Yellow grits, blueberry pancakes, biscuits and gravy – I managed to tick off most of the breakfast items in the I-Spy book of American cliches, but to my disappointment, not a single one came with hash browns. I've spent the last fortnight in the United States.
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